onstruction of the brick castle began in 1283, shortly after the Teutonic Order received the land of Gniew from the Duke of Gdańsk, Mściwój (d. 1294). This was the Teutonic Knights' first territorial outpost on the left bank of Vistula, so they immediately set about fortifying these super-easily acquired areas. Dietrich von Spira, the first commander of Gniew, was appointed to supervise all the work. He decided to use building material obtained from the demolition of a brick watchtower in Potterberg (or Potteberg) in Chełmno Land and transported to its destination by the river. A steep, riverside hill at the mouth of the Wierzyca River into the Vistula was chosen for the location of the new convent's headquarters, thus taking advantage of a natural obstacle to protect against attack from the east. The location also made it possible to control land routes and navigation on the Vistula River.
CASTLE SEEN FROM THE TOURNAMENT COURTYARD SIDE
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onstruction work lasted intermittently for more than forty years and proceeded in two major phases. In the first phase, a 6-meter-high outer wall was erected, into which three turrets and a massive square bergfried were incorporated. The northern and southern residential wings, which were still low and poorly equipped at the time, were also erected. Initially, the entrance to the courtyard led through a gate located in the southern wing. It could be accessed via a drawbridge over a moat separating the upper castle area from a triangular-shaped farm yard.
THE LOCATION OF THE CASTLE IN THE MEDIEVAL TOWN: "DIE BAU- UND KUNSTDENKMÄLER DES KREISE..." 1887
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t the beginning of the 14th century, the eastern and western wings were built, and the existing ones, with their towers, were raised, so that they all reached the height of three stories. The wings formed an inner courtyard, surrounded by wooden galleries. Nearly a century later, the castle was adapted as the private residence of the former grand master,
Michael Kuchmeister von Sternberg (d. 1423). Around this time, the southern gate was replaced by an entrance located in the eastern wing, and the eastern farm yard was also expanded. These changes resulted from the need to modernize the fortress due to the development of firearms. This is because the south wing had too many large windows, making it difficult for the crew to defend the castle during a siege.
THE WAY TO THE CASTLE LEADS THROUGH THE XIXTH-CENTURY NEO-GOTHIC GATEHOUSE
niew was the first Teutonic castle on the west bank of the Vistula River and one of the most significant in the entire Teutonic state. In 1407, the Gniew komturia possessed more than 500 horses, including about 100 war horses of great material value. The arsenal stored 162 crossbows and more than 40,000 bolts, as well as a number of firearms. The supply of modern armaments still left much to be desired at that time, and perhaps this is why during the Great Polish-Teutonic War (1409-11) in the summer of 1410 the fortress' crew surrendered, presumably without a fight, to Polish troops under the command of Paweł of Wszeradów, who then occupied it until the conflict ended. After 1411, the castle was quickly rearmed, so that by 1416 it already had 8 stone bullet guns and 16 lead bullet guns.
BY THE GATE
W
hen the anti-Teutonic uprising broke out in Prussia in February 1454, insurgent troops, consisting of local knights and burghers, joined the first siege in the history of the fortress, which ended after a week with the success of the besiegers and the escape of the Teutonic knights to Malbork. Gniew was taken over by a Polish knight of Dutch origin, Jan of Jani (von der Jane) of
the Ostoja coat of arms (d. 1461). However, he failed to control the chaos that ensued at the time, as a result of which the castle was plundered by the local population, and was not far from being completely demolished, as demanded by the Gdańsk authorities. Soon, however, after the Poles lost the Battle of Chojnice, the stronghold returned to Teutonic dominion.
GNIEW, CASTLE COUTRTYARD
H
owever, this did not mean the end of fighting during this war. The strategic location of the town caused the Poles to begin blockading it a few weeks later - helped by the Gdańsk fleet, which closed off supply access from the Vistula River. Nevertheless, they did not decide to storm the castle directly, but only fired at it from time to time with crossbows and small cannons, which of course could not do much damage to the Teutonic Knights. Despite the difficult situation of grand commandant Ulrich von Isenhofen and his crew, caused mainly by illness, lack of food and water, the Polish troops unexpectedly abandoned the blockade of the castle. Upon hearing of this, polish King Kazimierz Jagiellończyk ordered an investigation, as a result of which it was established that the Polish commander, as well as part of the knighthood, had accepted a bribe from rotmaster Fritz Raveneck, in return pledging to abandon the siege. A high-profile trial was arranged, during which the bribe-takers were sentenced to death.
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n the summer of 1463, Polish troops commanded by Tomiec of Młodkowo and Piotr Dunin forced the Teutonic crew to capitulate after a siege that lasted nine months. Undoubtedly, the defenders' decision was influenced by the collapse of spirit, chaos and panic, caused by the defeat of the Teutonic army in the Battle of Snowy Bay, as a result of which the Order lost about 30 ships and more than 1,000 killed. Such a significant loss paralyzed Teutonic operations on the Vistula, and thus prevented an effective relief of the defending stronghold. This is how the Teutonic rule of Gniew castle came to an end.
HENRYK BARANOWSKI, "BATTLE OF SNOWY BAY", 1988
TEUTONIC COMMANDERS AT THE CASTLE IN GNIEW
Dietrich von Spira (1283), Arnold Kropf (1284),
Friedrich von Esbeck (1297-99), Heinrich von Eisenberg (1302-1306),
Zigfried (1309-11), Heinrich von Buchholtz (1313)
Gunther von Schwarzburg (1325-30), Albrecht (1332-33) książę Brunszwiku,
Rutger von Mewe (1334-35), Heinrich Reuss von Plauen (1336),
Hermann von Kudorf (1347-51), Hans von Falkenstein (1347-51),
Gotfried von Hoslitz (1352), Hans von Falkenstein (1352-59),
Kirsten von Bernswalde (1363), Ludwig von Benfeld (1375-86),
Konrad von Eltz (1386-96), Konrad von Lichtenstein (1396-99),
Arnold von Burgeln (1399-1402), Heinrich von Schwelborn (1402-4),
Johann hr. von Sayn (1404), Friedrich von Wallenrod (1404-7),
Siegmund von Raumungen (1407-10), died at the Battle of Grunwald,
Peter von Lorch (1411-16), Paul von Russdorf (1416),
Hans von Seelbach (1416-22), Michael Kuchmeister von Sternberg (1422),
Hans von Seelbach (1422-31), Ludwig von Landsee (1431-34),
Michael von Nesse (1434), Hans von Pommersheim (1434-38),
Gerlach von Mertz (1438-40), Bruno von Hirzberg (1440-41),
Gerlach von Mertz (1441-44), Michael von Geilsdorf (1444-46),
Ludwig von Erlichhausen (1446-49), Hans von Remchingen (1450-54)
PLAN OF THE CASTLE AND THE TOWN ON ERIK DAHLBERGH'S DRAWING,
SAMUEL PUFENDORF: "DE REBUS A CAROLO GUSTAVO GESTIS", 1656
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fter the end of the Thirteen Years' War (1466), the town of Gniew became the seat of the royal governors (starosts). The castle at that time was not in very good condition, which most likely resulted from warfare. It wasn't until 1565 that starost Achacy Czema (d. 1576) did some renovations here, but the extent of these works couldn't have been much, since by the end of the 16th century most of the castle rooms remained abandoned, and all the towers were also in ruins. Certainly, however, the administrators took care of the walls and defensive devices, which were maintained on an ongoing basis and kept in good condition. In 1623, the starost of Gniew,
Albrycht Stanisław Radziwiłł
of
Trąby coat of arms (d. 1656), hosted King
Sigismund III Vasa himself at the castle.
LITHOGRAPH WITH A VIEW OF GNIEW, 1855
T
wo years later, Swedish troops entered the town, and an attempt to capture the castle in September 1626 turned into a major confrontation, known as the Battle of the Two Vases, which was widely believed to have ended with the Polish troops being smashed by the disciplined Swedish infantry. Although the defeat of Sigismund Vasa's army at Gniew was more of a prestige than a strategic significance, it highlighted the backwardness of the Polish army, which trusted too much in the strength of the "legendary" hussars. Gniew castle was seized by the Swedish army, but soon afterwards, thanks to the clever maneuvers of Hetman
Stanisław Koniecpolskicoat of arms Pobóg (d. 1646), after a ten-day siege, Polish troops regained it. Before handing over the castle, however, the Swedes managed to take the most valuable furnishings from there and devastate its interiors.
T
he Swedes returned to Gniew in 1655, and although this time their occupation lasted less than three decades earlier, its plundering character had a very negative impact on the town's economy, causing it to almost collapse. A year after the Swedish invasion, the castle was regained by the units of Hetman
Jerzy Sebastian Lubomirski (d. 1667), who arranged in it military quarters and a jail for Swedish prisoners of war. In 1657, some of the captured Swedes organized an escape, which, however, ended still in the basement of the castle, by the wine barrels, because the fugitives ...got drunk. They were captured, of course, but according to the legend, they avoid punishment after they appeased Lubomirski by claiming that they had been drinking to the health of His Majesty the Hetman.
VIEW OF THE CASTLE FROM THE EAST IN 1887, "DIE BAU- UND KUNSTDENKMALER DES KREISE..."
D
espite the damage caused by the Swedish occupation, the entire first floor and upstairs chapel still functioned in the castle after the end of war, and a large number of working artillery weapons and heavy ammunition survived as well. From March 1667, Field Hetman
Jan Sobieski (d. 1696), later electoral king of Poland, served as starosta of Gniew. It was through his efforts that the castle was partially renovated, although Sobieski himself presumably did not live there, using for this purpose a house built in the farm yard or a hunting lodge standing nearby. Probably at this time, a larch mansion for the queen and her children was also built next to the castle. Memonka, daughter of Jan Sobieski and
Marie Casimire Louise de La Grange d'Arquien, was born there, but she died in infancy.
THE SO-CALLED PALACE OF MARYSIEŃKA, IS ACTUALLY THE BUILDING OF THE FORMER GRANARY
THE QUEEN NEVER LIVED HERE
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t the beginning of the 18th century, the stronghold was in danger of a construction disaster, due to progressive erosion of the Vistula escarpment. During work to stabilize and strengthen the land, mysterious bones were found, probably remains of a dinosaur. In later years, the residues of animals unknown to the then inhabitants of these lands, including the bones of a
hairy rhinoceros, were identified in the area a number of times. In this period the castle no longer served any significant military function, no investment was made in it, as a consequence, its technical condition steadily deteriorated and by the middle of the 18th century, the building was already partially abandoned.
VIEW FROM THE NORTH, ON THE RIGHT WE SEE THE ELEMENTARY SCHOOL NEO-GOTHIC BUILDING, 1900
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n 1772 Prussian troops entered Gniew and with them a German administration, which remained here until Poland regained its independence (1918). The castle initially housed barracks, but was soon transformed into a huge granary, which entailed radical changes to its exterior, facades and interior layout. The Gothic vaults and toilet tower were demolished, some of the windows were bricked up, and an additional gate was made in the west wing to facilitate the transport of grain from the town.
THE CASTLE'S WEST GATE DATES FROM THE LATE XVIII CENTURY
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n 1854, the Prussian Ministry of the Internal Affairs bought the castle to house a tough prison for recidivists of the Lutheran faith. Adapting it for new purposes, part of the walls were dismantled and the main tower was demolished, being replaced by a smaller one, the same as the other corner turrets. The chapel's (damaged) vault was reconstructed, but its original height was lowered by about 2.5 meters, and a new altar, pulpit and benches for officials and prisoners were placed inside. A new interior division in the wings was made, as a result of which each wing now had four equal floors. In addition, pumps were installed in the well to supply water to the northern tower, which took over the function of a water tower.
THE CASTLE ON COLORED POSTCARDS FROM THE TURN OF XIX AND XX CENTURY
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fter the end of World War I, Gniew became part of the reborn Polish state. Initially, the castle housed offices of the district governor, and in 1920 it was turned over to the army for use as barracks and an ammunition depot. However, the very next July the buidling burned down under suspicious circumstances. The source of this great tragedy has never been explained, and while no conclusive evidence could be obtained, it was widely rumored to be a deliberate act of arson perpetrated by a German saboteur. In subsequent years, despite pressure from conservationists to carry out preservation work, they were unable to enforce it on the military administration that managed the castle. According to decision-makers at the time, the Prussian-era reconstructed building had little historical significance, and the military's lack of interest in rebuilding it influenced the decision to leave it as a permanent ruin.
GREAT FIRE OF THE CASTLE IN JULY 1921
D
uring World War II, in the partially ruined castle, the Nazi German occupation authorities organized a paramilitary school for Aryan youth, and then a temporary camp for two thousand Polish families, who were expelled from Tczew and its surroundings. After 1945, a battalion of sappers was stationed in the surviving south wing of the castle and in the palace of Marysieńka, and for a short period a prison also functioned here. The first works to save the Gothic stronghold were carried out in 1968-74. They included repairing the crown of the walls and the four turrets, the construction of a steel and concrete roof structure and its covering with ceramic tiles, as well as the construction of ceilings in the south wing and the ceiling over the basement in the west wing. The main reasoning for obtaining funds for this project was that in the event of a war emergency, the underground part of the castle could be used as a safe shelter.
PHOTO SUPPOSEDLY FROM THE 1940S
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fter the reconstruction, the building had to serve as a cultural center, but the organizational enthusiasm and funds were already lacking in the mid-1970s, which caused the investment to stop. And it was only in 1992, when the second stage of reconstruction began as part of public works. It included debris removal from cellars, restoration of ceilings, as well as adaptation of the castle's interiors for exhibition and accommodation purposes. In 2010, the castle became the property of a private company Polmlek and it has since been operating primarily as a hotel and conference center.
CASTLE COURTYARD IN THE 1960S, PHOTO COMES FROM THE WEBSITE FOTOPOLSKA.EU
he Gothic castle was erected on the high western bank of the Vistula River, near the mouth of the Wierzyca River. The headquarters of the convent was a massive brick edifice, consisting of four wings forming a plan similar to a square with side of 47 meters. The wings had the same height, but depending on their purpose, each was characterized by different internal divisions. The southern building had a representative function, with a star vaulted chapel and chapter house, which served as a meeting place for the monastic community. These large, ceremonial halls were separated by a small chamber, probably intended for guards, and this is also where the mechanism operating a portcullis was located.
GOTHIC CHAPEL IN THE SOUTH WING OF THE CASTLE
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he western wing housed a cross-vaulted refectory, while the eastern wing contained dormitories. Individual beds were probably separated from each other by wooden partition walls. Knights slept with their clothes and shoes on, since the regulations stipulated that they "should be permanently ready to fight the enemy". We don't know the purpose of the chambers in the northern part of the castle. They could have served as the commander's office and/or infirmary, i.e. a place for the old and sick. Entrances to the representative rooms of the castle were located on the second floor. Access to them led through wooden staircases and cloisters, which were also made of wood for security reasons.
PLAN OF THE FIRST FLOOR OF THE UPPER CASTLE ACCORDING TO C. STEINBRECHT (AT THE BEGINNING OF XV CENTURY):
1. CHAPEL, 2. CHAMBER OVER THE GATEWAY,3. CHAPTERHOUSE, 4. REFECTORY, 5. COMMANDER'S OFFICE,
6. DORMITORIES, 7. MAIN TOWER, 8. CORNER TURRET, 9. WELL
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astle cellars housed storerooms for goods, as well as prison cells and torture chamber. They also stored armaments and ammunition, mainly crossbow bolts and stone or lead bullets for artillery weapons. The ground floor of the castle included a pantry, kitchen and bakery, as well as some craftsmen's workshops and storerooms for tools and equipment. Fresh water for the convent and castle staff was supplied by a 36-meter deep well located in the central part of the courtyard. What is interesting is that a hidden passage leads from the well to the north wing. All of the Gothic wings, with the exception of the southern one, had a low storey for storage and defense, which occupied the space directly above the residential and representative parts. It featured a porch going around the entire upper castle.
CROSS-SECTION OF THE CASTLE ACCORDING TO C. STEINBRECHT:
1. REFECTORY, 2. DORMITORIES, 3. WAREHOUSE AND MILITARY STOREY, 4. CLOISTERS, 5. WELL, 6. MOAT
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acades of the castle are finished with Gothic architectural detail, particularly elegant in the southern wing, whose decoration is dominated by four pointed-arched windows of the chapel and three slender windows of the chapter house, as well as rhombuses and zigzags made of dark brick. The castle was flanked by three corner turrets and a massive bergfried, about 50 meters high. It was crowned by a crenelated platform, which served as a convenient observation and signaling point, as well as a place of last defense during a siege. Bergfried was demolished in the mid-19th century and replaced with a turret similar to the other three, and the only surviving remnant of it today is a stone plinth in the northeast corner of the building. The entrance to the inner courtyard originally led in the axis of the south wing. It was walled up in the 15th century and from then on the castle was entered through the east wing (and from the 18th century - also from the west).
SOUTHERN ELEVATION OF THE CASTLE, YOU CAN SEE THE ORIGINAL GATEWAY (WALLED UP),
"DANZIG - WESTPREUSSEN EIN DEUTSCHES KULTURLAND, VERLAG DANZINGER VERLAGS-GESELLSCHAFT", 1895
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he castle-cloister was surrounded by a defensive wall forming a roughly square plan, fortified by three corner turrets. During a siege, this area provided an additional buffer, and in peacetime it was used as a place for walks and personal prayer. Residential building for castle servants also stood here, as well as a heavy war equipment. The outer line of fortifications of the stronghold was formed by walls surrounding a farm yard, separated from the upper castle by a moat about 15 meters wide. The farm yard served as an economic facility for the commandery and the convent. Here there were buildings of an utility nature arranged along the walls, including stables, a smithy, a brewery, cowsheds, storerooms and craftsmen's workshops, granaries and a mill. A small fruit orchard probably grew here as well.
RECONSTRUCTION OF THE CASTLE FROM THE MEDIEVAL PERIOD ACCORDING TO J. SALM, "LEKSYKON ZAMKÓW W POLSCE"
or more than a decade the castle has been in the hands of a private owner, who has not spared any funds for its renovation and ongoing maintenance, which is evident as soon as you cross the gate leading to the farm yard. The entire surroundings of the fortress give the impression of having been decorated with taste and very well cared for. This feeling is heightened by a visit to the beautiful courtyard, which is both austere and elegant. Nowadays, the castle primarily performs hotel and commercial functions, but some of the chambers have been opened to the public. However, there are not many of them and compared to the huge Malbork, the tourist offer here is quite poor.
COURTYARD OF GNIEW CASTLE
T
he tour includes
the castle chapel,
porches
and several chambers, which house exhibits dedicated to the Battle of Grunwald and the events of World War II. There's also a
torture chamber, decorated in the kitschy style loved by children, with colorful illumination and moans coming from the speakers.
Admission to the courtyard is free, to the museum paid.
A tour of the castle lasts about 40 minutes.
FRAGMENT OF THE MUSEUM EXHIBITION: CHAPEL (ABOVE), ARCHAEOLOGICAL EXPOSITION
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n the summer, the castle hosts battle re-enactments, knightly tournaments and historical performances. Among them stands out an event called Vivat Vasa!, which is a free reconstruction of a 1626 battle, when Polish hussars fought against Swedish infantry armed with cannons and muskets. Another interesting event is the King Jan III Sobieski Knights Tournament held in July, the quality and grandeur of which put it among the best shows of that kind in all of Europe. Gniew Castle also organizes history lessons and craft classes that allow their participants to learn to some extent about living conditions in former centuries and experience time travel.
GETTING THERE
G
niew is located on the left bank of the Vistula River, about 40 kilometers southwest of Malbork and about 50 kilometers north of Grudziądz. The A1 highway runs 10 kilometers west of the town, so getting there by car should not be a problem. Gniew can also be reached by intercity buses, for example from Tczew. The nearest railway station is 10 km away (Morzeszczyn village).
You can park ia car on Wąska Street, near the main entrance to the castle.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
1. M. Haftka: Zamki krzyżackie w Polsce, 1999
2. I. T. Kaczyńscy: Zamki w Polsce północnej i środkowej, Muza SA 1999
3. L. Kajzer, J. Salm, S. Kołodziejski: Leksykon zamków w Polsce, Arkady 2001
4. P. Lasek: Prywatne zamki polskich dowódców z czasów wojny 13-letniej, Komunikaty Mazursko-Warm.
5. T. Olszacki, A. Różański: Zamek w Gołańczy, Gołaniecki Ośrodek Kultury 2015
6. M. Pratat, K. Zimna-Kawecka: Konserwatorskie i społeczne aspekty ochrony ruin zamków...
7. M. Stokowski: Zamek Gniew – siedziba krzyżackich komturów i królewskich starostów, TopSpot Guide
8. J. Struczyński, J. Rusinek: FAMA jako mecenas dóbr kultury
9. A. Wagner: Murowane budowle obronne w Polsce X-XVIIw., Bellona 2019
THE CASTLE SEEN FROM THE SOUTHEAST
Castles nearby: Kwidzyn - castle of the Pomezanian chapter from the 14th century, 18 km
Nowe - ruins of Teutonic castle from the 14th century, 23 km Sztum - Teutonic castle from the 14th century, 26 km
Osiek - relics of Teutonic castle from the 15th century, 31 km Malbork - Teutonic castle from the 13-15th centuries, 42 km
WORTH SEEING:
The Old Town, where the medieval layout, cobbled streets and low arcaded houses dating from the 15th to the 19th century have been preserved. In central part of the Market Square stands the Gothic Town Hall, erected at the turn of the 14th/15th centuries and still serving as the seat of municipal authorities. The famous Polish painter
Leon Wyczółkowski lived and worked for some time in one of the historic houses of the Old Town of Gniew.
The Gothic parish church of St. Nicholas from the 14th century, located in the south-western corner of the Market Square. It is a three-nave building of the hall type, with a separate presbytery and a bell tower integrated into the central nave. Its oldest part is the polygonal apse, which adjoins the nave to the east. The furnishings are Baroque and include a beautiful pulpit, as many as five altars and two chapels. Of note are the late Renaissance stalls for ten clergymen and the 14th-century stone baptistery standing near the entrance. Beneath one of the chapels, a
crypt with human remains found during archaeological work is exposed.
The so-called Garden of History composed of statues and monuments depicting in an original way the most important events in the history of the town. There is a column with a bench shaped like volumes of books commemorating the granting of town rights, a statue of the Radziwiłł's Treasure Guard, a two-meter high match reminding of the great fire of the castle in 1921, and a
stone door with two keyholes, reminiscent of Jan Sobieski's stay in Gniew. There is also a
wall with three trick mirrors and stones commemorating no longer existing sacral buildings.
The most important and popular figure in the Garden, however, is Teddy Bear called Maciuś. His statue stands near St. Nicholas Church, on a pedestal built into the front wall of one of the townhouses. The figure of the bear is associated with an urban legend referring to the battle with the Swedes in 1626, during which animals, flushed out of the forests by the ringing of church bells, came running to the temple,...to pray together for peace (?). They were to be led by a bear. Today Maciuś is the official mascot of the town and the only man in Gniew he has his own dressmaker, who sews costumes for him for various occasions.