robably, already in the first half of the 14th century, there was a knight's castle in Ratno (first mention in 1347), which was supposedly built by the representatives of the Silesian family de Mussin (Mosch). This small, possibly still wooden stronghold became in 1388 the property of Kłodzko burgraves belonging to the von Pannwitz, the representatives of an ancient Sorbian family. In 1430 the village of Rathen belonged to Friedrich von Haag, the royal governor of Broumov, and in 1485 the owner of the castle was Zbinko Bochovec von Buchau, a clerk at the court of the Ziębice Duke Jindřich I. Starší z Poděbrad a Minsterberka (d. 1498). A few years later this ruler probably included the castle into his property, because in 1494 he was already mentioned as its rightful owner.
SOUTHERN ELEVATION OF THE CASTLE, VIEW FROM THE PARK
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n 1501 the Kłodzko County (with Ratno) was taken over by the Imperial Count Ulrich von Hardegg (d. 1535), who bought it from indebted sons of Jindřich I. Starší, paying 70 000 Rhenish guilders. Several years later this representative of the old Austrian nobility married the duke's youngest daughter, Zdeňka (d. 1522). At that time the castle was probably already sold or leased, because in 1514 Balthasar von Reichenbach is mentioned as the lord in Rathen. Even before this transaction took place, the count had expanded the medieval fortress and surrounded it with earth fortifications. Subsequent investments in the castle were carried out by representatives of the Reichenbach family, perhaps also by the mentioned Balthasar. Before 1563, the building underwent a major Renaissance reconstruction during which ramparts were added and moats were dug. A plaque with the date 1563, probably placed there to commemorate the completion of construction works, has been preserved from this period.
FRONT (NORTH) ELEVATION OF THE CASTLE AT THE BEGINNING OF THE XX CENTURY AND IN 2019
CHANCELLERY BUILDING CAN BE SEEN IN THE BACKGROUND
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n 1613 Heinrich von Reichenbach sold part of his property with Ratno to Cert von Sobothendorf. Fifteen years later, as a sanction for Cert's participation in the anti-Habsburg rebellion, half of the village was confiscated from him and the other half was bought by Peter Langwiss alias Langewiesen. His son, Christian Langwiss, is remembered mainly for his violent character and ruthless policy towards his subjects, which led to a revolt of the peasants that ended with an attempt to burn the castle. However, the villagers did not manage to conquer the residence, but the Swedes did, and in 1645 they captured the castle, plundered it, and finally burned it down. A year later the estate was taken over by the empire administration and leased to the court secretary Wismer von Wiesenberg. Probably at that time some works on reconstruction of the mansion were carried out here, however, no documents proving this thesis have survived. In 1672 the lord of Ratno was Matthias Maximilian Domnisch. In 1675 the castle was bought by
Daniel Paschasius Osterberger von Osterberg (d. 1711), an imperial lawyer and a representative of the so-called new nobility.
CASTLE ON A LITHOGRAPH BASED ON A DRAWING BY FRIEDRICH BERNHARD WERNER FROM 1737
Daniel Paschasius was born in 1634 in Opava, Bohemia. He was the son of a rich merchant from Ostrava. After completing his legal studies in Prague, he served for some time as a chamberlain to the Counts von Althann in Międzylesie, where he made a considerable fortune. At the age of 32 he married a Bohemian noblewoman, Elisabeth von Zdradziste (d. 1717), and eight years later Emperor
Leopold I granted him the title of Count and the surname von Osterberg. Thus, he became part of a community called the new nobility. Soon afterwards he settled down in the village of Möhlten (Gorzuchów) near Wambierzyce, given to him by the Count Michael von Althann.
Von Osterberg was raised among the Jesuits. Influenced by the teachings and books describing ancient Jerusalem, he decided to reconstruct the holy city in the Kłodzko region. To realize his idea he chose a pilgrimage village named Wambierzyce, which he became the owner of in 1677. Building a missionary center turned out to be his life's passion. For this purpose, he brought here many prominent architects, who gave birth to the longest Calvary in Silesia. However, he had traveled to Jerusalem twice before to look at the layout of the stations of the cross there and then assembled everything according to that pattern, but in a reduced size.
On the initiative of Paschasius von Osterberg, a church was also built near the Calvary. However, its walls began to crack soon after the founder's death and the church was demolished. In 1715-23 a new temple was erected in its place, which has survived to the present day and is now called the Basilica of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary.
Other interests of the Ratno Castle owner are rarely mentioned. One of them was music. Von Osterberg even established the Church Musicians Foundation (die Albendorfer Kirschenmusiker-Fundation), where he paid the salaries of six of the band members. He was also a composer. For instance, he wrote the pilgrimage song Freu mich, du Albendorfische Jungfrau.
Daniel Paschasius died at the age of 77. He was buried in the church in Wambierzyce.
BASILICA OF THE VISITATION OF THE BLESSED VIRGIN MARY IN WAMBIERZYCE
VIEW FROM THE MONUMENTAL STAIRS OF THE BASILICA TO CALVARY HILL
SILESIAN JERUSALEM
According to a 13th-century legend, Jan, a peasant from nearby Ratno (or Raszewo), regained his sight here, and then saw the figure of the Virgin Mary hidden among the branches of an old lime tree. In the place of his miraculous recovery, a wooden chapel with a statue of the Virgin Mary was erected. Over time, the chapel was replaced by a small church, which began to be attended by thousands of believers. The Marian cult attracted pilgrims from other regions of Silesia, Bohemia, Moravia, and even Austria. Already in the 18th century about 200 thousand people made the pilgrimage here every year.
A real pilgrimage center was built in Wambierzyce by Paschasius von Osterberg who in 1683-1708 financed the construction of the Calvary consisting of over 100 chapels decorated with naturalistic wooden figures. The layout of the village reproduces the topography of Jerusalem - there are mountains: Zion, Sinai, Tabor, Horeb and Golgotha, the Cedron stream and the Siloe pool, while the Jerusalem Gate rises above the streets. The centerpiece is the late Baroque basilica with its unusual pulpit and luminous decoration made of 1,390 light bulbs hung on its facade in the early 20th century. Opposite the basilica is Herod's Palace with life-size painted statues, and nearby is the famous historic nativity scene with 800 figures, of which 500 are movable. The entire complex is one of the largest existing Calvary sites in Europe.
The Polish name of the village comes from the Czech name Vambeřice, used by Czech pilgrims. This one is an assimilation of the older German name Albendorf. In Poland Wambierzyce obtained the nickname of the Silesian Jerusalem.
BAROQUE INTERIORS OF THE BASILICA IN WAMBIERZYCE
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aniel von Osterberg also took care of the castle, which he transformed into a magnificent Renaissance and baroque residence, one of the most beautiful in the Kłodzko region. When he died, the palace with the villages of Albendorf, Ober- and Niederrathen was given to his older son Johann Anton who married Anne Therese von Eicholz. The last of the von Osterberg family to reside in Ratno was Daniel's grandson, imperial colonel Emanuel Franz. In 1776, he sold the estate to a trade councillor from Nowa Ruda and the owner of a part of Polanica-Zdrój (Bad Altheide), Leopold Gendel (d. 1787) for 77,000 guilders. We do not know what prompted the colonel to leave the Kłodzko region, but we can assume that this decision was caused by the takeover of Silesia by the Prussian Hohenzollerns, enemies of the Habsburgs, which the Osterbergs had supported for several generations. The new owners probably did not make any investments in the castle, focusing instead on the granges that provided a solid income from the production of wool, flour, wood and vodka.
ENGRAVING BY FRANZ SCHROLLER FROM 1885, "SCHLIESEN. EINE SCHILDERUNG DES SCHLESIERLANDES"
VIEW OF THE CASTLE FROM THE SOUTH ON A POSTCARD FROM THE TURN OF THE XIXTH AND XXTH CENTURY
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he next owner of the palace was the merchant Franz August Grossman, who sold it in 1854 to the Scottish millionaire Woldemar von Johnston und Krögeborn (d. 1860). It was probably him or his wife Theresa de domo Amelang (d. 1887), who rebuilt the castle in the Renaissance style, added new terraces on the garden side and built an orangery. The heir to this property was Maxilimilan von Johnston (d. 1918), royal chamberlain, who in 1900 established a majoraty with an area of 560 ha. His widow, Elisabeth de domo Hauteville-Jacquemin in 1933 gave the castle to her granddaughter (?), Baroness Isabella von Blanckart de domo von Münchhausen. Mrs. von Blanckart was the last pre-war owner of Ratno - she was deported from here in 1946.
VIEW FROM A RAILWAY VIADUCT TO THE SOUTHERN ELEVATION OF THE CASTLE, POSTCARD FROM AROUND 1905
THE CASTLE SEEN FROM THE WEST, 1909
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fter the world war II, the castle was nationalised and placed under the care of Ścinawka Breeding Enterprise, then Nowa Ruda National Council, and finally handed over to Department of Education, which planned to organise here an orphanage. Despite a major renovation in 1972, the castle stood empty, and although attempts were made to open a hotel here, the idea was quickly abandoned due to the stench caused by the nearby cattle farm. Devastated, but still in a good technical condition, the building was bought in 1996 by a private entrepreneur, and barely two years later it burned down in circumstances that remain unexplained to this day. It is commonly believed that it was intentionally set on fire in order to obtain compensation. Since that time, the owner has lost interest in the castle, which, devoid of any care, is deteriorating at an alarming rate.
SOUTHERN ELEVATION WITH GARDEN TERRACES, CONDITION IN THE 1960S AND TODAY
he medieval castle was built of stone and brick, on a plan similar to a rectangle with sides of 14x22 m. Probably the only masonry part (apart from the walls) was a corner tower and a residential house, possibly of half-timbered construction, attached to the southern curtain of the walls. The entrance gate was probably located on the northern side. In the 16th century, the south and north wings were built, which incorporated the medieval tower. Later, after the east wall was demolished, the south and north houses were extended, and the small space between them was filled by the east wing. The entire complex was enclosed by the western building, dated back to the mid-16th century, which formed a system of four wings surrounding a small courtyard. These wings were topped with a Renaissance attic.
PLAN OF THE CASTLE: 1. COURTYARD, 2. NORTHERN WING, 3. CORNER TOWER, 4. EASTERN WING,
5. SOUTHERN WING, 6. EASTERN ALCOVE, 7. WESTERN TOWER, 8. ENTRANCE PAVILION
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n the second half of the 17th century, Paschasius von Osterberg rebuilt the Gothic-Renaissance castle by extending its southern façade and adding a single-axis annex. He also rearranged some of the interiors, narrowed the courtyard, and added a turret to the entrance. A little to the west of the castle he erected a detached building where he placed the administrator's quarters, a chancellery and a billiard room. A representative entrance gate was built in the vicinity of the chancellery, and a not very deep moat was dug between the residence and the farm yard.
PLAN OF THE CASTLE COMPLEX: 1. CASTLE, 2. CHANCELLERY, 3. ORANGERY, 4. GARDEN TERRACES
CHANCELLERY, VIEW FROM THE WEST
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horough reconstruction of the old castle took place after 1854, when the estate became the property of the family von Johnston und Krögeborn. The residential wings of the building were raised by one storey and the western neo-gothic
clock tower
was erected. An entrance pavilion was added to the northern façade, and on the southern side, impressive terraces and stairs leading to gardens with an orangery were built. Until the mid-19th century the gardens were adjacent to a menagerie, which was later transformed into an English-style park. After the changes the castle had a volume of 14,000 cubic metres. The top of the new tower and the crown of the buildings were decorated with a Neo-Renaissance attic, and their elevations were accented with corner rustication and decorative window stonework.
CASTLE PARK, PHOTOGRAPH FROM 1909
TODAY THE TERRACES ARE IN RUINS AND THE FORMER PARK HAS TURNED INTO ONE BIG WASTELAND
he castle's current form - with its tall tower and attic top - is largely the result of reconstruction carried out in the second half of the 19th century, although the core 16th-century concept has remained unchanged and is still clearly visible. The sandstone portal decorating the main entrance from 1677 with the coats of arms of the von Osterberg family has survived. The coat of arms of the Johnston und Krögeborn family, held by two lions, has also been preserved and is located in the central part of the attic of the south elevation. Of the remaining architectural details we can still see parts of the facade decoration and fragments of window and door stonework.
VIEW FROM THE NORTH TO THE FRONT ELEVATION OF THE CASTLE
THE CASTLE AND THE CHANCELLERY SEEN FROM THE WEST
RUINED GARDEN TERRACES
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or the first few decades after the war, the castle was kept in not too bad condition. It was almost completely ruined by the fire that broke out here in February 1998. Today it stands empty, making a depressing impression enhanced by the broken ceilings, boarded up windows and eerie silence. The overgrown and decaying park with ruined orangery and garden terraces looks similar. The 17th-century chancellery building standing near the castle is slightly better preserved, although, judging by the scale of destruction, this term does not seem very lucky. Its interiors, devoid of historic features, not long ago inhabited, now haunt with scenery straight out of a horror movie. There is everywhere here broken furniture, broken tiles and sanitary facilities, old (but not antique) stoves and other garbage. When we look at this sad image, we get an irresistible impression that the castle has died and there is no hope for it anymore. However, there is a chance for its revival. After many years of efforts, the municipal authorities have begun legal steps to expropriate the current owner and to resell the building or to preserve it as a permanent ruin. As I write these words, the case is very fresh, so it is worth following the press reports about it.
TERRIBLY DEVASTATED INTERIORS OF THE FORMER CHANCELLERY
The castle is a private property, but the owner has no interest in the place. You can therefore freely enter the "park" and the ruins. However, the castle walls are not protected in any way, and the rotten boards and stairs look as if they are about to crack and collapse. Therefore, if you want to "visit" the interior, you should be very careful. And do not allow children to enter!
The tour of the castle from the outside should take about 15 minutes. Penetrating the ruins from the inside, including the corridors and chancellery rooms will probably take much longer.
You can come to Ratno with your dog. The dog should be on a leash because there is a farm next to the castle, which is not separated from it.
Convenient conditions for drone flying. Very good perspective on the castle from the west, south and east. There are no buildings here, and the location on a hill makes the building only partially obscured by trees.
FROM THE CHANCELLERY TERRACE THERE IS A VIEW OF THE CASTLE PARK AND THE WESTERN PART OF THE VILLAGE
(NOW SOMEWHAT OBSCURED BY TREES)
GETTING THERE
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he village of Ratno Dolne is situated a dozen or so kilometers east of the Stołowe Mountains, in the center of a triangle whose vertices are the towns of Nowa Ruda, Kłodzko and Kudowa Zdrój. Bus transport from Kłodzko, Polanica and Nowa Ruda reaches the village. The castle is located in the eastern part of the village, near the intersection of the roads to Radków, Polanica-Zdrój and Nowa Ruda.
You can park your car on the hill near the castle. At the crossroads, take the road in the direction of Ścinawka/Nowa Ruda, and after passing the park (on the left) turn left into
the road leading uphill. There, by the Baroque chapel, turn left once again and drive a few dozen meters more.
Access by bicycle according to directions as above.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
1. L. Kajzer, J. Salm, S. Kołodziejski: Leksykon zamków w Polsce, Arkady 2001
2. A. Kwaśniewski: Zamek jako kreacja przestrzeni mitycznej..., DiG 2002
3. J. Lamparska: Tajemnice, zamki, podziemia, Asia Press 1999
4. J. Lamparska: Sudety Środkowe po obu stronach granicy, Asia Press 2003
5. R. Łuczyński: Zamki, dwory i pałace w Sudetach, Stowarzyszenie WA 2008
6. M. Perzyński: Zamki, twierdze i pałace D. Śląska i Opolszczyzny, WDW 2006
7. A. Wagner: Murowane budowle obronne w Polsce X-XVIIw., Bellona 2019
A VIEW OF THE CASTLE FROM THE SOUTHWEST, A LIVESTOCK FARM IN THE BACKGROUND
Castles nearby:
Ścinawka Średnia - Renaissance manor house from the XVI century, 6 km
Ścinawka Dolna - Renaissance manor house from the XVI century, 8 km Ścinawka Górna - Renaissance manor house from the XVI century, 10 km
Nowa Ruda - fortified manor house from the 14th century, rebuilt, 6 km
Szalejów Górny - St. George fortified church from the 14th century, 15 km
Stary Wielisław - St. Catherine of Alexandria fortified church from the 14th century, 17 km Kłodzko - Kłodzko Fortress from the 17th-18th centuries, 18 km